Eiid and end of first month

Can't believe it's only been a month in Jordan, I've enjoyed my time and had the opportunity to do so many great things. At work I've been able to assist with lots of capacity building activities for the organization, such as establishing the first newsletter, setting up a knowledge management system and participating in the restructuring of the member committees as well as attending a business planning training with the members and beginning the organization of a member's directory. The members of the architects and engineers association are all very prominent and well respected companies in the Middle-east and it has been fun to work with them and the Executive Director of the A/E Business Council, Samar and her assistant Amna, the only two staff members. They are both really wonderful people and have embraced me as a team member and made me feel welcome. Outside of work, I've been able to visit the beautiful pink Wadi Rum desert to sleep under the stars and dance with the Bedouins (my second time--see picture of the sunrise in the desert above) for a weekend, as well as visit Syria over Eiid which was such a refreshing experience...getting out and getting a real feel for the Middle East again, after being shut away in my cushy life style here in West Amman. I've mentioned it before, I really think Syria is a hidden treasure in the Middle East, for the beauty of the country and its largely intact and diverse ruins and for the hospitality for the people as well (far from the "axis of evil" the US media would love to have you believe)! I've experienced this hospitality (even after I tell people I'm American, probably then even more so) all three times visited. See picture above of me sitting on a Byzantine temple in one of the Dead Cities in Syria (an area in the middle of Syria that is so literated with ruins of these ancient cities--no one knows what happened to the people who lived here--that locals use their remains as barns, shelters, and even homes--guess they are not dead cities anymore, one area still grows olives in groves used since ancient times). Excited for a trip to the Gulf of Aqaba on the Red Sea, this weekend with other EMDAPers and then the weekend after, to a natural reserve I've never been to before here in Jordan called Wadi Mujib, where I'll be able to do some repelling near a water fall. Was feeling a little depressed and home sick this last weekend, though, mostly because I feel victim to the terrible flu that is going around, and being forced to stay home gave me time to reflect and realize how much I miss all of you at home. Finally felt a little better and was able to go out with EMDAPers and co-workers to a wonderful little art gallery that overlooks the city is located at an old Ammani house with a garden complete with the remains of original Roman columns. The exhibits showcasing the stories of Palestinian refugees who witnessed atrocities and had atrocities perpetrated against them and were violently and abrubtly forced to flee their land, eerily reminded me of stories I read at the Armenian genocide memorial and also, ironically, Holcoust exhibits...so sad, another example of the victim becoming the perpetrator of violence and even feeling justified in it, on and on, and so it goes, it never ends. It's the other side of the story, that unfortunately the internationally community never seems to receive. As I mentioned to some of you before, I really miss working with the less affluent population and hope to be able to do some volunteer work refugees soon too.

The evening at the art gallery made me realize there are lots of little areas to explore here in Amman including other cute hidden cafes and art galleries, once again the door is always open to anyone who wants to visit me in Jordan (I'm trying to convince you). I'm attaching some links to some pictures too, since they take forever to upload until this blog. My friend Molly has posted her pictures of our Syria trip at:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=11gpc3m5.45vc212d&x=0&h=1&y=7nmsgw&localeid=en_US

And I have some pictures posted at Snapfish of Wadi Rum:
http://www1.snapfish.com/share/p=376121223829170312/l=429529670/g=2857144/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

and Syria:
http://www1.snapfish.com/share/p=646121223829326822/l=429529671/g=2857144/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

I'll post more soon! L, Dena

First few weeks in Jordan

Sorry, it's taken me a while to get to this blog, but we just got Internet in the house, so now it's a little easier. My first few weeks in Jordan have been a whirlwind. The other EMDAPers and I had several days to relax before starting our orientation so immediately went out to explore the old part of the City touring the ancient Citadel and Roman theater. I was able to
see the Citadel on my last trip to Jordan but was fun to take time to climb the steps of the theater and see the museums showing period dress. For some reason we decided to run up the the Roman theater steps and I was sore for days, the incline is practically straight up. The theater and the citadel date back to AD 191 and was part of the ancient Roman City known as Philadelphia. Ramadan had started when we arrived, and we some how missed the fact that we couldn't drink water in public (even if it is REALLY hot), luckily we weren't arrested because we later learned that is illegal to eat or drink in public. The following day we visited the Dead Sea, my first time on the Jordan side. It was as a remember it, the experience of floating with no effort and getting into water that is like bath water is a little disconcerting. As everyone else, we covered our bodies in black dead sea mud (sort of like clay) and acted like sea monsters. After this, we had our orientation at the Fulbright office with the 30 some Fulbright scholars in the country and were taken to search for apartments, all in one huge group. It was highly annoying to feel all this pressure to find a home and be competing with many others (see Me, Torrey and Susan below, exhausted after a day of looking at apartments), but finally we managed to get settled into a apartment. Next we were given keys to cars. Driving in Amman, has been a whole other stress, besides the complete lack of road rules and the completely different types of traffic signs and different way of using traffic lights, the City is difficult to get around in. Since there are so many hills or jebels, each neighborhood is its own 'jebel' and if you get stuck in one its hard to get out, because all the buildings look the same. I think people honk constantly just for the fun of it. I've left work a couple times to do an errand and haven't come back for 2 hours. ..with all the getting lost I am finally learning the city though...and now that I am used to it, not having any road rules whatsoever is kind of freeing! Soon after we met the representatives of our organizations and there was an evening iftar dinner in our honor at the exclusive King Hussein Club.

My co-workers are great and I'm really excited about the work I'll be doing with the architect and engineers business council and its members, there is a conference coming up on green building and sustainable cities at the Dead Sea and I am excited about this issue in particular. The apartment that we ended up with is great (see pictures below), in a very convenient location (near to Starbucks, Safeway, Food City and two malls..not sure if this is a positive or negative). Everyone is really helpful, there are many nice and delicious eating places and good places to hang out in the evening to smoke argelia or get coffee. Other highlights or interesting points on living in Amman:
-There is a Syrian soap opera that only airs after Iftar during Ramadan and every business place
town shows it, everyone stops what they are doing and crowds around to watch it.
-Everyone has reduced hours for Ramadan, most people are fasting from sun up to sun down, the sun down meal is called iftar, not good to being driving at this time as everyone is tired, grumpy and rushing to get home..also many businesses and most restaurants are closed during the day during Ramadan, because no one is eating. I am also trying fast while I am at work (from 8:30 to 3:30 p.m., it was alright at first but now I feel like I'm going to pass out, I'm sure I've lost many kilos).
- Our imported shelf from China, the all important, "three put shelf, platform of thing," see right.
-I'm getting accustomed to hearing the call to prayer 5 times per day (sun up, noon, 4 p.m. sun down and around 8 p.m.)
-A truck with music like an ice cream truck delivers gas for homes, you run out and stop them
-I'm going to Wadi Rum this weekend (for second time) too sleep in the beautiful pink desert and ride a camel!
-For the end of Ramadan, Eiid, we get a five day Holiday and I will be heading to Syria, one of my favorite places, esp. Damascus.
-I have a wonderful roommate and a amazing fellow group of EMDAPers.
-Having coffee and argela and watching Syrian soap opera at our favorite outdoor restaurant in Amman (right).
-My roommate and I treating ourselves to lunch and cupcakes at Crumbs (one of the few restaurants open lunch right now in Amman (below).

I'll write more soon! L, Dena